The Venice Questions

A new thing - online interviews with authors, revealing their feelings, thoughts and secret enthusiasms with regard to Venice. They get to talk about their newest (or most Venice-relevant) book too.


 

  3. John Julius Norwich              July 2010

A man who needs no introduction, but here goes. The many books of Viscount Norwich include the unchallenged standard history of Venice, which we all rely on; and Paradise of Cities, Venice and its Nineteenth-century Visitors, an enthralling look at the personalities who inhabited the last glamorous era of Venetian history. There's also a three-volume history of Byzantium, an essential next step for anyone seriously interested in the major influences on Venice's history.

On a less Venetian note he recently edited a book of the diaries of his father, Duff Cooper, and published his own autobiography Trying to Please. He also has impeccable taste in pizzas.
 


 

Henry James famously said, in 1909, that there was nothing new to be written about Venice. How wrong was he?
Couldn't have been wronger. I must have been to Venice a good 200 times, and I find something new every time I go. There are still countless historical mysteries to be solved.

Do you think that there are still aspects or periods of Venice's history that have been relatively ignored? (I'm personally puzzled by the lack of histories of Venice during WW2.)
Mysteries, yes; aspects or periods, not many. I agree about WW2 Venice (but see below). And there's more work to be done on the first 3-4 centuries of its history. For the rest, I think it's pretty well covered.

Do you read much fiction set in Venice? Have you ever been tempted to write a novel?
Quite a lot. Joseph Kanon's thriller Alibi, which I read a week or two ago, is interesting on immediately post-war Venice. It's an odd book; for most of the time he suggests that he knows the city like the back of his hand, but he seems to think there's a parish called S. Ivo - I think he means S. Vio - and insists on referring to S. Maria in Formosa. I couldn't write a novel for nuts - no creative imagination. All I can do is report.

Have your researches ever been annoyingly frustrated? Do you have any tales of adventures amongst the archives?
Only by being unable to find an answer to a question that's bugging me. I have hardly worked in the archives at all; virtually all my research has been done in the London Library.
 





 

Do you have a film/book/artist that made a visit to Venice essential for you?
No - I got to know Venice aged 16 by going there. The films/books/artists came later.

Do you remember your first visit?
Very, very clearly. I went with my parents for the day from Lake Garda and fell in love at first sight.

What is your single most magical experience in Venice?
Oh dear, I've had so many. I think I'd rank gondola trips at night around the small canals highest of all - that's when you see the city at its most magical.

And your worst?
Being taken on a three-hour tour of the lagoon in a motoscafo in pelting rain - all the windows fogged up so nothing to see.

Where would you live in Venice if you could choose? And why?
In the heart of the city - somewhere round Campo S. Angelo or S. Stefano, so that I can walk in 5-10 minutes to almost anywhere I want to go.

Is there a book (guidebook or not) that you always have to take?
Lorenzetti of course, and perhaps Jan Morris.

What music plays on your iPod (or in your head) when you walk around Venice?
NOT those Four bloody Seasons.
 
John Julius's mother, Lady Diana Cooper, dressed as Cleopatra at a lavish ball in the Palazzo Labia given by Don Carlos de Beistegui in 1951. The costumes were inspired by the palazzo's Tiepolo: The Banquet of Cleopatra.


 
Do you have a favourite …
... Part of Venice
 No - I love every inch of it.
... Restaurant
Al Covo - next to the Hotel Gabrielli.
... Church
S. Maria dei Miracoli
... Gelato flavour 
Banana
... Pizza topping
Margarita, with extra cheese

And what’s your least favourite aspect?
Summer tourists.

Do you think that Venice is dying/drowning?
Dying yes (very slowly); drowning, no.

If you were Mayor of Venice for one day, what would you do?

Ban leviathan cruise ships, and slap a walloping charge on all cruise buses. Everyone should be allowed to come to Venice, but they should find their own way there, like we all used to.
   



 

  2. Mary Hoffman                                                May 2010
Mary is the author of many magical novels for children of all ages. Recently Trobadour, set in the time of the Cathars, was nominated for the Costa, among other prizes. She's also a vegetarian who likes cats and black coffee, as you can see on her website.

As if this wasn't enough to recommend her to us, the first in Mary's Stravaganza series is set in Bellezza a subtly different, and often temptingly improved, version of Venice. It's one of my very favourite Venice-set novels. So it's a good place to start.
 

 

What was the idea behind your setting City of Masks in a fictional Venice, called Bellezza?
On my first visit to Venice, which was a day trip from where we were staying at Lake Garda with our three teenage daughters, we were cajoled into taking them on a gondola ride.

It was fantastically expensive – more than the rail fares for all five of us there and back from Desenzano – and I started musing about what would have made it worth all that money. Perfect weather for a start: it had started to drizzle from a grey sky. And then perhaps a really handsome gondolier. Ours was perfectly pleasant and reasonably knowledgeable but he was middle-aged, balding and paunchy.
 
   
I started fantasising about a city just like Venice where all the
gondoliers were under twenty-five and absolutely stunning. How could this be? Well, if they were chosen by a woman. What woman could have such power? The ruler of the city. But Venice never had a woman ruler. All right then, not Venice but a city like it in a parallel universe, where the elected ruler is a woman.

This is how stories begin with me: an idea and then a question and answer session with myself until the core of the idea is ferreted out. Venice had a Doge, which is Venetian for Duke, so my Bellezza (="beauty" of course) had to have a Duchessa.

And to make it more interesting, although the parallel world bit would be set in the 16th century, there would be a 21st century traveller to it. When I looked at the idea five years later, when I was staying on the Venice Lido, I found that my unconscious mind had worked away and produced Silvia, the
Duchessa of Bellezza and Lucien Mulholland, the 21st century
teenager who would travel to meet her.


HUGE SPOILER FOR ANYONE WHO HASN’T READ CITY OF MASKS !

Death in Venice is a common concept, but you have your character dying elsewhere to live in Venice. Was this a conscious reversal? Does it reflect your idea of Venice, maybe?
Absolutely not! I hadn’t thought about that till you asked. I don’t buy into Venice as the disease-ridden world Thomas Mann wrote about, in spite of having enjoyed Dirk Bogarde as von Aschenbach and Benjamin Britten’s opera.

The Bellezza of my secondary world, in the country of Talia, is about beauty and yes of course masks. In fact the book was going to be called Where Beauty Wears a Mask and the city’s motto is “BELEZZA E MONETA” which might mean Beauty and Money or Beauty is Money” depending whether there’s an accent on the “e”, which there might not be in capital letters.

I wanted the city to be a character in the novel in its own right – something with a distinctive personality, a personality that is larger than life, always up for a celebration, fanatical about its ruler and sentimental when it believes her lost. Bellezzans love to party and have a strong sense of ceremonial, loyalty and fun. Like all Talians they are deeply superstitious and follow the old goddess religion even if alongside the more recent beliefs and rituals of a variety of Christian church.

So it’s really less about death and more about life. In Lucien’s case a second chance at life, which he loses in his own world. It’s also very much about appearances.

Writing historical novels...do the plot possibilities of mobile phones, distant travel in less than 6 months, and the internet not appeal at all?
I have written “realistic” books. In fact my other most famous collection of books is about Grace, a little Black girl living very firmly in the contemporary world. But you’re wrong, when it comes to teenage fiction, the plot possibilities are far greater in an age when not everything could be discovered at a touch of a screen. Having said that, the teenage characters live firmly in the 21st century and have mobile phones and use the Internet.

Is it important to you to be able to speak and read Italian?
Oh yes. I took my A level in 2000 and since 2001 have been attending a class in Oxford called Reading Italian Literature. I’m coming up to my tenth year of it in September. We read novels and short stories, write essays, speak and give presentations all in Italian. I just love it.

Do you speak Venetian?
Alas, no. Though I had City of Masks read in draft by a Venetian, who complimented me on my use of the word “sottoportego”!

What are you working on now?
Surprise, surprise, a historical novel set in Italy! It was commissioned by Bloomsbury and is about the young man who posed for Michelangelo’s great statue of David in Florence. No-one knows whether such a person even existed, which gives me a lot to play with. It takes place in the period 1501-1504, the only three years of this man’s life when he has adventures – and what adventures!


 

 























 

Do you have a film/book/artist that made a visit to Venice essential for you?
Someone said that no-one ever sees Venice for the first time. I just can’t remember where I first learned about it but I think of two things. My older sister had a memorable visit there when she was young. (And I spent a month in Florence when I was 20 so thought you had to be a “Venice person” or a “Florence person” – wrong!).

The second thing was reading Henry James The Aspern Papers at university, which is set in Venice.

Do you remember your first visit?
Yes! See above under the inspiration for City of Masks. I had terrible toothache at the time which might have made me less tolerant of a less-than-handsome gondolier.

What is your single most magical experience in Venice?
Ah, so many! Seeing a gondola glide past the window of the café in the Doge’s Palace, going to a masked ball laid on by Bloomsbury, having breakfast in the Danieli roof terrace with Barbara Trapido, finding the boarded-up theatre that I used in City of Masks and many, many more.

And your worst?
Finding a MacDonalds!

Where would you live in Venice if you could choose? And why?
Without a doubt somewhere in Cannaregio. We rented an apartment there once, overlooking a little side canal. It was so peaceful and we shopped for food in the market like proper Venetians.

Is there a book (guidebook or not) that you always have to take?
Calli, Campielli e Canali

What music plays on your iPod (or in your head) when you walk around Venice?
Gracious! I don’t have an iPod and don’t associate any music in particular with Venice except perhaps Monteverdi Vespers of 1612. I suppose I should say Vivaldi’s Stravaganza violin concertos but I’ve never listened to them there.

Do you have a favourite …
... Part of Venice
Canaregio. I also love Torcello.
... Restaurant
I’ve never found a really good one. I’m a vegetarian, which makes it a bit harder. But I don’t think one goes to Venice for the food. It’s not like Bologna or Florence.
... Church
Madonna del Orto
... Gelato flavour
Nocciola, gianduia e caffè
... Pizza topping
Carciofi

And what’s your least favourite aspect?
Acqua alta!

Do you think that Venice is dying/drowning?
I’m not qualified to say. If it can be saved, it will be because it has such a special place in so many people’s imagination.

If you were Mayor of Venice for one day, what would you do?
Retire all gondoliers over 25 of course!
 
 





















 

  1. Michelle Lovric                                                   April 2010

Michelle has written four novels for adults set in Venice, and two for young adults, as well as an anthology of the Venetian writings of others, all of which should be read and cherished by discerning readers of books about the city. She has a very tasteful website too.

She has also recently caught the campaigning bug - tirelessly pushing for the Column of Infamy, which commemorates the conspiracy of Bajamonte Tiepolo in 1310, to be brought out of it's centuries hidden in a  dusty basement. So who better to start this new feature?

Her somewhat stunning new novel The Book of Human Skin is out this month , so we begin with that.
 
 



What made you choose Peru as a major setting this time?

That surprised me as much as it surprised you. The truth is I went there on holiday, without even a computer. And then the convent of Santa Catalina grabbed me by the writing finger. It’s the most beautiful convent I’ve ever seen, and I am to convents what you are to books about Venice. But beauty isn’t enough. The thing about Santa Catalina is that it is compellingly strange, in the mix of Moorish and Christian architecture, in its sense of being an enclosed city, particularly at night, when they light it simply by candle and the fires in their stone ovens. I’m amazed that no English writer has set a book there before.

Peru drew me into the theme of skin, after seeing what a colonial and slaving history had imprinted on the faces of the Peruvians. But I was also drawn to write about Peru because of the Andean mummies, the Candelabra Cactus, the fate of guinea pigs, and the town of Arequipa itself – a little Venice 7000 feet above sea level.


The story is told through five alternating first-person narratives. Did you write each of the separate voices in one go or follow the plot and write each as they appeared?

This isn’t the first time I’ve done a multiple voiced book. It’s a format I love as a reader – particularly the way Matthew Kneale does it in English Passengers, and Louise Berridge in Honour and the Sword, which is published next week.
 

 


 

There are so many advantages to a multiple voice – you can create a tangible dynamism by strategic baton passing; you can use one narrator to establish the reliability or lyinghoundedness of another, and you can create that ‘LOOK BEHIND YOU!’ tension by showing the innocence of some characters and the machinations of others.

Method? I work out the plot and then decide who’s the best person to carry it at each point.

And for the voices, I love voices, I hear voices … each character has his or her own vocabulary file, preoccupations etc. I suppose I write ‘tics’ for them all.

How much fun was writing  the wholly evil character (Minguillo) and how much do you worry at how seemingly easy this was for you?
Is Minguillo wholly evil? Isn’t he aided and abetted at every corner by the eager reader?  Did you have to turn his pages if he disgusted you so much? This is the point that I wanted to make – we deride the gutter press, but which papers have the highest circulation? I wanted to write about the moral responsibilities of the reader, and Minguillo is the challenge I set. 

Yes, I enjoyed writing Minguillo, loved it -  to an extent which might worry people. But who doesn’t long, sometimes, to pull on a black cape and swish it about, and twirl one’s moustachios and mutilate the innocent? 
 

Oh, sorry, not you?  I got you wrong, Jeff. (Your affronted webmaster says 'Indeed!')


Another historical novel – do the plot possibilities of mobile phones, distant travel in less than 6 months, and the internet not appeal at all?

You’ve answered your own question. How can you have a plot to unravel when there’s Wikipedia? How can you get into serious physical peril with a mobile phone?


You’ve just embarked on a series of books for young adults, does the idea of developing a series for adults tempt you?

In a way, I have. The portrait-painter Cecilia Cornaro has so far appeared in three of my novels. She’s completely real to me, and there’s a lot more mileage in her yet – as a bit-player in other people’s stories or in a more major role. She is the equivalent of a photographer, too, a way of recording the faces of all my other characters. I have a role in mind for her son, Girolamo, in a forthcoming book.



Your next book for adults?

Having done skin, I’m extremely interested in … hair.
 
Photos of Santa Catalina by Graham Morrison



 

Do you have a film/book/artist that made a visit to Venice essential for you?
Giovanni Bellini’s paintings. Brideshead Revisited, the original, of course.

Do you remember your first visit?
I was eighteen, alone, and completely vulnerable: I fell hard.

What is your single most magical experience in Venice
?
The small canals near Miracoli, late at night, October, a gondola rowed by our friend Bruno, our friend Greg playing the violin, our friends silenced by pleasure.

And your worst?

Watching the acqua alta gush into our house on November 30th last year.

Where would you live in Venice if you could choose? And why?

I love where I live, but if I had to choose another area it would be near Sant’Alvise.
I love the smell of salt in the air, the high sky, the privacy.

Is there a book (guidebook or not) that you always have to take?
Giuseppe Tassini, Curiosità Veneziane

What music plays on your iPod (or in your head) when you walk around Venice?
Voices – the voices of my characters. Not music. I’m also a very greedy eavesdropper. You get unintentional comedy from tourists, and new vocab from Venetians.

 


Do you have a favourite …
... Part of Venice
Sant’Alvise, Misericordia. But it changes.
... Restaurant At the moment it is the Sicilian Beccafico in Santo Stefano
... Church
I love San Zan Degola on the inside, and the back end of Miracoli on the outside.
... Gelato flavour  Coffee
... Pizza topping Romana
 

And what’s your least favourite aspect?
A certain Venetian plumber. And speeding water taxis undermining the foundations of the palazzi, unhindered.

Do you think that Venice is dying/drowning
?
Very, verrrrrrrry, slowly. Like us.  But more beautifully.


If you were Mayor of Venice for one day, what would you do?

Well, this would make me unpopular, but …

I would make the police actually enforce the speed regulations on the Grand Canal, with bounties for arrests, and have offenders’ boats impounded.

I would ban bottled water in Venice. Transporting those bottles to and from the mainland costs this planet too much. Anyway, the tap-water in Venice is delicious.

I would offer a rates amnesty to any young people who wanted to set up a proper food shop in the centro storico, and free accommodation for them too.

I would ban groups of more than 20 tourists, who block the calli. More to the point, I would make sure that ban was enforced. Operators who broke the law would have their permits removed.

I’d hire a team to inspect every single piece of scaffolding in Venice and discover if it is actually doing anything. Then I would impose a daily fine per square foot on any useless scaffolding until it was removed. The fine would go into a fund for cleaning graffiti.

I’d deal with the water rat problem this way: I would subsidize Dingo, the cat charity, to set up a cat café in every sestiere, where visiting cat-lovers could drink cappuccini while caressing cats who would naturally solicit large donations.

I would make a decree that all Venetian shop-owners must put the truth about their opening hours on their doors. If they really open only at 9.25, then they must not put 9.00 on their signs.

I would take a team of historians down into the depositories of the Fondazione di Musei Civici and see what treasures have been forgotten.

For my husband’s sake, I would summon all the parish priests of all the churches, and ask if anyone has a campanile that they would like restored for use as an architectural studio.

I’d set up a ‘Shhh in the City’ campaign, to stop people banging doors, playing music and television and shouting into mobile phones in the streets late at night – this causes so much unhappiness in Venice’s narrow streets.

Quite a long day.

But I presume that, as Mayor, in the evening I’d also have to preside at the inauguration of a major exhibition – perhaps about the Conspiracy of Baiamonte Tiepolo. And afterwards we’d have dinner in an exquisite private palazzo with artists, historians and writers, and then walk home over the passerelle at two am, with the streets magically to ourselves.

Although after what I’d done all day, I would probably need the Comandante of the Carabinieri to accompany me.

(Your amused webmaster says: Notice how she goes to town on the question that asks 'What would you do if you were in charge'!)
 

 

 



Venice // Florence // London // Berlin

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